The Donkey Kong Project

'A long sought after treasure'

Started: 10/07/10 / Updated 04/27/16


I'd been searching high and low for a Donkey kong for quite a few years. Finally I came across an ad on craigslist from a Game Glory Video Games-N-More located in Taylor, MI in which they were selling one for $200. The ad said it 'Needed work'. They apparently are open W-T-F-S-S and closed Monday and Tuesday. So I had to wait a day to contact them. Fortunately, they still had it when I called. I paid via Paypal and set-off the next day to pick it up. After arriving I was less than enchanted at the condition. Frankly this was probably more worth 150. But having a complete cabinet, even if all the parts are junk parts is still better than trying to go from scratch. This project is going to take a bit to get her whipped back into shape from the originating sorry state that I acquired it.
This is the picture from the ad I found. Definitely a DK 3 bezel but everything else seems to be straight DK. Apparently there is a white line on screen. Sounds like a horizontal collapse of the monitor. With any luck the game plays blind.
Blowing through Toledo here on I75. Got up, showered, dressed and Maggie and I took off about 9am for Taylor, Michigan. Beautiful sunny day and temperature was great.
After about an hour and a half we stopped off at the Michigan welcome center and Maggie took care of her business and we were back on the road after a brief stop.
I had a bit of a hard time finding it, but after dialing them on my cell phone I got back on track again. Picked up the cabinet. Lord they had nails pounded into the back of it to hang items off of and it was stacked 7 foot high on top with other wares they were selling. I was a little disappointed at the condition of the cabinet.
The trip back was a slow one. Long drive. No incidents or problems. Being the cabinet had no back door and items were flopping around I was a little afraid something would come flying out, like the pcb or bezel...
Arrived home at headquarters. Man this cabinet is in really rouph shape. Things are just dangling around and the cabinet is practically falling apart.
Sure enouph the bezel was working it's way out of the cabinet.
Unloaded this poor mistreated and abused gem.
Can't see much but the scuffs are pretty much irreversible short of sanding and repainting. That bezel has to go.
Opposite side pretty much in the same condition. Sideart gone long ago.
Temporarily placed the PCBoard where it should go. Apparently they made different boards for them. This is the two board set. TKG4-11 from what information I've looked up so far.
Donkey Kong monitor. Not sure of the condition of this yet.
Cigarette burns from sitting a lit cigarette to burn the CPO and buttons.
There is also a warp in the CPO where it got very hot in the center. The Control panel is not stable and is very loose feeling, like it's ready to give way any moment.
You can see how the entire control panel is ready to fall off the cabinet.
I unscrewed what was attaching it and checked the pine blocking. Even the blocking is loose. I pulled all the panelling nails, screws from the side of the cabinet that drove straight in on the right CP side in a failed effort to brace it up. Removed all the staples no longer holding anything together. Removed both side blocks and used some wood glue, refastened the screws. I also freshly applied wood glue to the bottom of the CP where it meets the front panel of the cabinet.
Then I hit it with the air stapler on both blocks to side and to the CP. I then hit it with about 5 or 6 staples evenly spaced from the CP to the front panel. Cleaned up where the glue was squeezed between the wood at the seams.
2 staples placed in addition to the 2 screws and wood glue. This sucker isn't going anywhere and it is now very firm. I also tightened the very loose screws from the inner side panels fastening them to the exterior side panels.
And just when I thought I was done creating cardboard bezels. I'd just recently finished doing one for Missile Command. I saved what was here anyways for a makeshift template if I needed one. Wasn't much left of it.
It appears there is a T-molding channel on the CP edge. I'll have to look this up to see if they used the same white T-molding as on the side edges of the cabinet.
Inspected the Marquee lamp. There was none. And again, one of these plugin flourescent under cabinet fixtures. I will need to do some digging to find out if this was original. I found the same thing in a Donkey Kong Junior project so this may be factory. However, a standard 18" bulb will not fit here, this is about half that size.
Well it helps to have video going to the monitor actually plugged in. This was just fluttering around inside the cabinet and was not attached upon pickup.
This would explain why I don't have any speaker pop or activity. Red wire came seperated from it's transformer located on the monitor.
At this stage it went from one line at the bottom to now several lines. So much for getting it to run quickly. But when I'm powering it up, I get a boing sound - similar to a Mario Jump. Not sure what that signifies.
I found this connector on the power supply to have broken contacts at the header pins and it was flipping up and down. I pulled the PS out, opened her up and flowed some new solder onto these connections. After I did this, I lost my little boing sound, now no audio at all. Man I hate going backwards. And here I was hoping I'd be able to get this up and running with a little bit of luck.
After looking over the wiring diagram and running some voltages on the multimeter I found I was missing practically all voltages. The only thing I had was -5v. No +5, +12, -12 and then I lost the +24v to the coin counter. So the power supply is shot. Rather than to recap this atm, I'm going to order the Donkey Kong Power Supply Conversion Kit from With just a cap kit you don't know if that's going to fix the problem and I'd like to get this game up and running.
Rather than to search and hunt for an item that's quickly working it's way to obsolescence, I decided to throw in a new 15" fixture for the Marquee lamp. However the cord is too short. I did however find an extension cord that is exactly the length I need to reach from the top front to the rear bottom of the cabinet. Some rewiring is in order.
Rewiring finished, also removed the switch as it is unneeded. Tested the fixture and then placed the cover over the ballast and wire housing. Secured the fixture with two screws inside the marquee location.
Why all the carriage bolts?
Other than the top two which secure the monitor brace to the cabinet, the rest are going to nothing.
I pulled all but the necessary two bolts out and then washed the cabinet down with a solution of Simple Green applied with a scratch free scotchbrite pad followed by a wiping down with bucket and water to remove the simple green coating. This did take alot of grime and scuffs off. I did all 3 sides and also washed the bird crap off from the top of the cabinet.
So, time to firm up this cabinet some more. The wood that the back door rests on is very loose. Some wood glue applied with a brush and a few jots of 3/4" staples sturdied this right up.
Changed ammo for some slightly longer staples to perforate the 3/4" block and just a hairswidth from running through 5/8" material of the outer side panel. Had to pull the hand screen off with a phillips bit and ratchet x4. Wood glue applied with brush to the side of the cabinet and the pine blocking moved into position. 2 jots with the staple gun and the upper rear panel isn't going anywhere.
Made sure of this by hitting the rear panel with about 3 or 4 staples which secure it to the side panel edge. This portion of the cabinet HAS to be strong as this supports the force of the grab handles for pulling the cabinet back onto the hand truck or the cabinets own wheels. If this piece were to go, the whole cabinet would end up on the floor with a crash. Grab handle screen then resecured with ratchet and phillips bit.
Not sure why the coin units were engineered to sit at this odd angle. Service switch needs some attention. The 24v coin counter is going to have to be replaced with a 12v unit to support the new power supply upgrade.
Again, as I've come across this so many times, the earth ground has been snipped off. They make adapters y'know.
Brand new receptacle installed.
It's probably been quite a number of years since this thing has been lit up. It's starting to look like a Donkey Kong. Long road to hoe. The power supply is pulled, so I have to cross that bridge first before getting to any PCB issues.
Marquee is really lit up nicely. There's a few specs but I'm not going to dare touch it after my pacman marquee mistake. This looks fine and well enouph left alone unless I wanted to replace the entire Marquee. Plenty of other things to replace. Namely the Donkey Kong 3 bezel.
Started up on this around 2pm. Drove to the storage unit and picked up the Donkey Kong Junior project for reference. I needed this for all the measurements.
Started out on the Coin box housing. This material called for 5/8" ply, which I had in stock. The most difficult part of this was going to be the top, which turned out to be the easiest.
I used a wood cutting bit in a drill for the 4 corners of each coin entry slot. I then used a power bandsaw. I completed each side panel and the back panel. Used wood glue and 1-1/4" staples on each edge. Checked the housing for fit in the cabinet and alignment.
Got out the orbital sander and sanded down the coin shelf of all the previous glue and some protruding staples as well as remove some excess material that was still stuck in place from the previous assembly. I used 3 pine blocks, wood glue along all 3 edges and 1-1/4" staples to secure the housing to the coin shelf.
The two cabinets side by side.
I took a little breather, then it was time to do the coin box. Used the original for reference measurements. This called for 1/2" material on everything but the front, which was 3/4" ply. I had all in stock. Started the cutting.
After using both a table saw and hand circular, all pieces were cut, and assembled with wood glue and 3/4" staples. The piece was checked for fit in the cabinet.
Completed the rebuild of the coin box. This portion of the project is now finished. I'll need to figure out how they arranged the wiring harness to the coin door.
The 5Amp fuse holder is just flopping around inside the cabinet. I removed the fuse and clipped the wires to the holder to replace it.
Brand new fuse holder purchased from Radio Shack.
Fuse placed, holder secured to the plate and wire connectors installed.
Power plate now looks good.
This is the service switch. I removed the plate to sandblast and paint it. It was rust covered. I'm not quite sure what purpose it serves for these wires to be stripped bare. I cut them past the bare portion.
And then resoldered them onto their respective contacts at the switch.
The switchplate is now dry and I reinstalled the service switch and routed the coin-door wiring harness where it looked like the wires should go.
I seriously think I am missing parts to this coin return, they both look alike. I know for sure I'm missing something on the bottom. It functions alright, but I think there's supposed to be a coin catch.
Replacement Conversion power supply ordered and arrives from Arcadeshop. Nice and easy hookup to main power.
This is my first glance at DK A screen full of upside down garbage. My first thoughts are to pull the Eproms and double check their checksum data to ensure they're all there. I also pulled the Z80 CPU and replaced it with new. This brought some life back, but not quite there yet.
5B, 3N and 7F are incorrect. At first I just erased them and reprogrammed them however, it didn't take. I tried erasing and reprogramming a second time. Finally I just replaced both 3216's and the 2736 and programmed the code in using Mame data files.
The programmer hard at work.
We have life! Well, half-life. The game coins up. There are no sprites at all. And very faint music, Kong snicker, coin up and Death sounds. Only way I could tell they were there was at max volume. The walk, jump and Thump sounds are all good. You can play the game but barrels are invisible. No Mario, Hammers, Fireballs, Kong or whatsername. And yes the monitor needs recapped badly. It also looks like the monitor needs degaussed as well. Wierd.
I decided to replace the 24v coin counter with a 12v unit to accomodate the voltage change with the new switcher.
In an effort to repair the missing sprites and fix the sound issue. I first reflowed all the caps on the CPU board. This did not resolve the audio. I then reflowed all caps on the video side as well as reflowing 1H, MC10125 IC. The results were fruitless. No change. I have ordered the MC10125 for replacement. Riptor of Klov shipped these parts very swiftly and even included the correct 16 pin socket with the sale.

I clipped the legs off the old IC, cleaned up the board and then soldered in place the 16 pin socket. I then placed the replacement MC10125P into service. Fired her up to find this did nothing to resolve the missing sprites issue.
Meanwhile, at the same time I ordered the MC10125 I also ordered a cap kit for the Sanyo EZ monitor as well as the audio board for 12.99 plus shipping. About $18.00 in total with shipping. Cap kit arrived in excellent time from It marks the first time I've ordered a cap kit from Twisted quarter.
After removing the monitor from the cabinet and then removing the boards from the monitor I was thankful I ran a cap kit on an Atari Blasteroids Sharp XM monitor just prior to this. Things went alot more smoothly. However, this thing was absolutely cruddy to the point you couldn't even read the on-board screenprinting. I decided to douse all boards in dishwashing detergent and water. I used a soft brush then to clean the 30 years of dust, dirth and debris growth from the boards. I then used a hair dryer to dry them. Now I'm ready to run the cap kits.
Despite earlier experience with a Sharp monitor cap kit, this took an exceptionally long time to replace the number of caps in the kit as well as 3 resistors. I was happy to complete this cap kit. My first Sanyo EZ under my belt.
Gave the board a once over look and moved on to the next board, the audio pcb.
Replaced every single cap on the Audio board as well as 2 transistors. A surprisingly complete cap kit combo pack. Surprising in the number of caps that had to be replaced. This I felt, was a real chore.
2 bags of 30 year old capacitors removed. As well as 3 resistors and 2 transistors. Quite a number of replaced electronic components.
Upon completion of the cap kit, it was time to throw everything back together. But before that, cleaned up the tube quite a bit with some Simple Green and shop towels.
Monitor is now completed and ready to be thrown back into the cabinet and back into service to see what we've got.
It took a bit of adjusting and tuning, but we've got a very sharp, clear and colorful display. Looks like day one. Although there looks to be some discoloration. I may try a little degaussing and see if that cleans it up.
Adjusted the vertical center and size, horizontal width and size/ B+ voltage scaling. Brightness. It's all looking good now.
Focus control adjusted. Now all we need is a 100% working boardset and good audio. I am unable to get the boards to 100% although I've come close. It's time to let the professionals take over to get our sprites and all musics back. Now that I think about it, I probably just have a bad Pot on the PCBoard for the digital music.
Marquee brackets had been beadblasted clean. I'd intended earlier to have everything powdercoated. But logistically, just too many projects going on and I've seen good results from paint.
Satin Black Krylon applied.
Now that the PCBoards are sent off for an initial repair I can beadblast the board plane and get this all prepped for the return shipment of the boards. An unusual amount of rust has set in here. Time to nip this before it advances further.
also alot of rust along the bottom edge. This was all beadblasted away, sanded, and blasted once again.
Primed and painted.
Noticed screws protruding the outside of the cabinet. Removed this bezel guide with it's extremely long screws and bent over original staples. This has been off once before for some reason.
And the right bezel guide had nails in it as well as bent over original staples. Pulled this as well.
This is what should have been used.
The Marquee bracket screws just aren't cutting it. Too small for the threads that are there and the worn heads aren't helping. Pretty rust covered as well. Time to replace these.
Pulled all the old staples, nails, screws out of the bezel guides.
Applied about 80psi with stapler and wood glue to secure the bezel guides properly.
Being that the pcboards were sent off for repair, the board plane was repainted and the plastics were reapplied awaiting the arrival of the pcboards.
If you recall back in October, this was all that remained of the inner cardboard bezel. I was able to use this as a template, even though half of it was torn away years ago.
After completing the trace, a straight edge and an xacto knife, I was able to carve out a brand new cardboard monitor bezel from black stock Walmart poster board.
I then took the xacto knife and cut 4 thin strips of double sided adhesive tape. Which I then fastened on every internal edge. This will adhere to the monitor and keep the bezel in place.
This took a bit more measuring. The measurements for the blind that fastens to the upper cabinet are provided by Phetishboy of Klov, in which he refers to this piece as a Ninty Mullet. They are: 22 7/16" wide and 15 3/8" deep. The fold line is 1.75 inches from the top. The notch cut for the bezel retainer is placed dead center of the folded tab and cut 15/16" wide. The 1.75" folded tab is then stapled up to the back of the cab roof and the long 'mullet' part hangs down 13 5/8" from the top. The full forum convo is here.
Stapled the 'Mullet' in place from the rear of the cabinet with about 4-5 staples.
Supernice. Draped over the top of the monitor.
Carefully placed the bezel over the monitor and adhered it.
Pulled the old coin door off. Found I was missing some of the M4 x 20mm carriage bolts. They have a .7 thread. I tried to locate these at the local fastenall and came up empty. But I could get the flange nuts without a problem. I'll see if I can find them somewhere otherwise I may have to go with a screw. For right now, this piece is pretty bummed up. Time for a scrub down.
A shot of the piece inside the sandblaster getting all the old rust/oxidation/paint off.
Completed the work. I actually used glass beads as they don't pit the metal. Takes a bit longer.
The faceplates of the coin mechs are going to have to have their reject buttons removed before I can blast those.
Donkey Kong PCB repair arrives from Dick Millikan way out in Washington State. 60$ pc board repair. Reassembled both boards to the metal plate and plugged her all in for a test run.
Primed and painting the coindoor in the basement. I used Krylon Satin Black. I'd probably have opted to powdercoat however all nintendo metals were never originally powdercoated and were spray painted from the factory. This is a one evening second coat; or for you pro painters out there, what's considered a single heavy coat.
Package arrives from Been meaning to order this for a long while. Bezel and CPO reproductions.
Removed both sides of the protective materials. Removed the old Donkey Kong 3 bezel and installed the actual bezel that belongs on this cabinet.
I was about to install the new CP plexi however I found I also needed to order some new buttons as well. I'd forgotten about these. All cooked and warped from cigarettes being placed to burn into the buttons and CPO.
Picked up a 4x8 sheet of Birch $41.00 from Menards. Spensive! But it's not supposed to warp. So I commenced to make a back door.
I had ordered 6 mechs from 8-Liner on Ebay at $15.95 each. at $95.70 plus $19.00 shipping for a grand total of $114.70. A pair for Frogger/DK and Junior. I am really hoping they fit the DK door like a glove.
Found a few dimensions online and by measuring the current opening. Some of it I guessed at. Here I used a router for the bottom of the door channel. I also had to route a channel for the power cord, I went 1/2" x 3/4" in length.
For the ventilation I went about 5" up from bottom, 2" opening and 13.75" in length. That left about 4.75 on either end.
From the previous cut of the 2 back panels I had this scrap piece I'd saved. I used 3/4" blocking on either end. I went about 15" on this piece in length. First I applied wood glue to all pieces and set them in place. I had to go with a longer length staple 1.5" to staple the whole assembly into the back door. I couldn't use the standard 1.25" as it would come through the other side. I usually staple the blocking, then staple the final piece to the blocking.
Finished both panels. One for Donkey Kong, one for DK Jr.
Test fitted. A nice fit. Just need some paint and a lock for the rear panel.
Placed a preorder and paid for 40 feet of brand new offset-molding for Donkey Kong. After double checking and removing a section of the old t-molding I found it was not offset. So I changed the order to 40' of flat t-molding. The package ships rapidly from Michigan. This project was undertaken by audiomidiman
Some beautiful t-molding awaiting installation.
Artwork arrives as part of a greater package 05/10/2012. Total $20.00 plus shipping.
A brand new Donkey Kong restoration package. Essentially encompasses all things on the Control Panel except new buttons.
Donkey Kong has been acting really weird ever since I got it. I'd approached klov general help about the problem. Music and audio tones would just randomly begin screeching. Then the monitor would go black. I was informed the -5v is very sensitive and has to be within a certain tolerance. I found the voltage at -4.62. I adjusted it up to -4.92, however that just wasn't enough to satisfy it as it continued screeching. Finally bumped it to -5.08 and it appears to like it ---- so far. Keeping an eye and ear on it. However the monitor still goes out after maybe a minute. No neck glow - like power is cut to the monitor.
Raising the -5 volts to -5.08 however also rose the voltage of the +5v as well to +5.31.
And wow, the +12v is now at +15.22. Not sure I'm liking the overvoltage there.
Kong was acting stable with no screeching now, so I'm hoping I nailed it. However the monitor was going into HV Shutdown. I ran a complete cap kit as well as audio. However I missed the important step of adjusting the B+ voltage. I found it was running at around 123 volts. Dialed it back to 108.3v.
Well. Let me just say I enjoyed a good game of Donkey Kong. Complete. NO errors, no monitors shutting down. No sounds going crazy. I am so crossing my fingers and holding my breath these two important steps have brought stability to Donkey Kong. A game I will never do without. One of my all time favorites and I am hoping and praying it holds. Keeping an eye on it.
Not a peep during attract. Monitor is staying on. Maybe I can actually get to putting the new reproduction coin door on it??? WOW!
Nope - the audio problem has not gone away. Still there. Resistor at R378 not looking too healthy. Ordered a stock of 5k 1w resistors. Also had to place an order for 4 caps I did not have in stock. I also placed an order for the 2 large transistors, C2SC2073 and 2SA940. I attempted to swap an audio amp from another Sanyo 20ez and a darned cap exploded. Board that had never been recapped. I'll figure this screeching out yet if it kills me.
Was looking at and I saw mention that if your having Audio issues with Donkey Kong, that you should check the fusible resistor at R383. Well I'll bite. Ordered 10 of them for stock. I installed and it made no difference at all. Although readings indicated that there was a problem on the R383 of the swapped board. I replaced the R383 on both boards. So all this time I'm looking at audio board. I even swapped the audio board out for another - still the same thing. Someone suggested swapping out the transformer that powers the audio amp. Did that. No difference.
So I pull the boardstack out again. How many times have I done this? But this time I notice a C6 is completely missing. Well I ordered the 0.068uf25v ceramic capacitor. Ordered 20 of them for stock. I also pulled the music Eproms and ran a checksum on them - all perfectly good. While I'm fiddling with the burner I check the logic Eproms on the same board - not a problem. Well. Screw it, pulled the 24 pin sockets from the Eproms 5F and 5H. Going to replace them with new - except - My 24 pin sockets were mislabled. What I have are 28 pin sockets - so ORDERED 24 pin sockets. Both machine and Dual Wipe. Ugh.
Possible area of interest here. 2 74LS75's. According to Mike of It could also just be a logic gate that goes flaky. There are 2
74LS75's that interpret the sound codes, and either one, or one of the
logic chips that feeds them could be bad, triggering the sounds firing off. He also suggested the 8035. Way ahead of you Mike. I placed the order for a replacement a few days ago. I placed an order for a stock of 74LS75's.
Ok, well to start off we got all our parts in needed to run the fixes (hunches). First off, soldered in place the 24 pin sockets for the sound Eproms. Then we pulled the74LS75's This wasn't pretty. They did not want to be removed. After removal, cleaned up the board with some isopropyl alcohol on both sides.
New 74LS75's installed and socketed. About this point I lost all music. Still have Mario walking sound, thumps of Donkey Kong stomping and barrel hits. But nothing else.
Well, needed to try swapping out the old 3085 for it's replacement. That did nothing. I probably should have stopped at this point and went back to tone out the solder connections on the 74LS75's but I moved forward. Pulled the music chip back out and checked the socket. Looked a bit chalky. The kind of chalky when aluminum begins rusting.
So I pulled the old socket out and cleaned up the pcb with isopropyl alcohol and cotton swabs.
Replaced the socket with new (40 pin I believe). This did nothing.
Well were down to the DAC-08 and the LM324. Replaced the DAC-08 with stock. No results. So pretty much at this point we've gone in reverse and the problem has gotten worse. Mike of Mikesarcade (I've bought so many components from him) shoots me an email. I've been conversing with him as he has run several repairs of these and has given me a few ideas. Anyhow, he writes and offers an exchange of a good working board in exchange for mine and a bench fee. I just have to try it out to see if it works out - or if I'm back to music going nuts again. I leaped at the offer. Thanks Mike. I've had this thing for 5 years and haven't once been able to play it solidly through without it misbehaving. Not stable at all.
After probably hundreds of orders for parts, I finally asked Mike of for some help and guidance. I've had the board repaired 3 times by the same guy. And always the same problem some 5 years later. LIKE WTF? I paid a guy 3 times for the same problem. He said he'd noticed my relentless pursuit of trying to get this Donkey Kong running stable and strong. I was so driven after being told it had to be everything AROUND the board, but not the board, that I grew tired of chasing ghosts and decided to work on the board myself. Well, fortune had it I actually went in reverse to the point I was down to just girder stomps and Mario walking. Mike offered a trial exchange of the one board I suspected with a 35$ bench fee and exchange for a fully working DK board. A very generous offer. I could not turn it down despite all the work I put into this. It arrived today, 09/05/15 and I immediately sprang into action in installing it, connecting the connectors, the ribbon cables and powering up. After 15-20 minutes of play, nary a problem. No odd sound issues. I scored 46,000 points, passed the pie factory and not ONE problem. Still holding my breath I intend on going out there tonight and letting it run for an hour just to see if it starts screaming. I'm going to push it a bit and play it from time to time. Just to try to stress it. For the moment, I have put everything back together, back door on, pushed it into the lineup and swept the carpet.
Finally getting around to installing the front coin door to Donkey Kong years after I ordered the reproduction and the coin mechs. Now if I could only find or figure out how to operate this off of .900 tokens.
Finally getting around to installing the coin door lock. Also, had an issue with the coin mechs not coining the game. Found that I had the switches wired incorrectly and I adjusted the games dip switch settings to factory defaults.
About 4 months later, word reached me that Asahi .900 token mechs were up for sale at I contacted Mikesarcade and described my dillema, being I just recently purchased these. I found out that there was no way to adjust the quarter mechs for .900 tokens. Mike offered to exchange my .25 mechs with .900 for only the cost of shipping alone. At first I was a bit apprehensive in that, wow - all that I've gone through to just get these mechs in there- and I have to rip them back out again and ship them and wait for the return shipping of coin mechs I have to install again - in the same cabinet?? It seemed I was moving in circles. It took a couple weeks later for it to sink in. I ran an arcade that operated on .900 tokens. I have to coin these manually for guests and leave the coin door open for them to stick their hands in there looking for a good shock. Now - this is an arcade right? I don't know of any arcade where you stuck your hands into the cabinet to coin it up. The resulting conclusion was obvious. It had to be done. Pulled all the coin mechs out, shipped them and recieved exactly what was needed. End of story.
The second set of brand new coin mechs installed. These operate with .900 tokens however and all it costed me was $35.00 in shipping costs. I did the very same thing with Popeye and I can finally put this problem to rest. Mikesarcade has come through for me in a big way on several occasions when it came to Donkey Kong. Thank you so much for all that you do for my Kong machine.